Friday, June 24, 2022

Ancient Rome on 5 Denarii a Day (Samantha Cantrell)



1. “Food is important to the Romans, and the taking of it generally a social occasion.” (39)

Throughout the trip, it was very clear that food is an important part of Roman culture.  Between plentiful street food options, hole-in-the-wall trattorias, and picturesque streetside and terrace dining, there was no shortage of opportunity to partake in the important tradition of sharing a meal with friends.


2. “…it seems as though every second street-front shop is an eatery of some description.  Some sell specialist snacks for one of Rome’s many ethnic groups, others offer full-scale meals for patrons relaxing under the awnings.  Wine is freely available, as are delicacies like dates imported from Africa and Palmyra.” (40)

Shopping for food and gifts in Rome was an overwhelming experience, but in a good way, because of the sheer variety of shops and restaurants available.  Much like in the height of the Roman empire, today there is still a massive selection of restaurants and eateries of all cuisines to choose from.  The streets are still lined with businesses selling anything you might need, and seating from restaurants spill onto the path outside for diners to enjoy some people-watching as they eat.


3. “The farmers arrive before dawn and set up their stalls in streets which are designated as market streets.  These are then closed to regular traffic…” (64)

Visiting street markets throughout Rome was amazing, especially seeing the sheer variety of products being offered, even though each booth was fairly small and specialized.  The fruits and vegetables were so bright and colorful, and everything seemed to be fresh and ready to take home to cook right away.  This is so different from the massive supermarkets we’ve become accustomed to in the US, which made the whole experience more exciting because it was so different from the way we would typically shop.


4. “On the central part of the hill is the Domus Augustana, once home to the emperor Augustus.  Before Augustus, the Palatine housed many elite Roman households...But the Palatine was gradually taken over by Augustus’ ever-expanding palace…” (128)

Even now, the Domus Augustana (House of Augustus) remains beautifully preserved, and it is still an incredible testament to the beauty of ancient Roman archaeology.  It towers above its surroundings on the Palatine Hill, which Augustus mainly prioritized as an administrative space, which makes the ruins even more impressive by comparison.  While there are other plenty of other interesting sites on the hill, particularly near its base, the massive complex certainly stands out.


5. “This [aqueduct system] runs through mountains and over rivers, and is so solidly built that it is perhaps the world’s only municipal service that will still be partially functional after 1,800 years of use.” (17-18)

While most of Rome’s water is no longer supplied by the original aqueduct system, there are a few still standing that feed Rome’s fountains, including the iconic Trevi Fountain.  While it has undergone renovation and restoration, the Aqua Virgo (now called Aqua Vergine) still supplies water to this fountain, and although it is far from its original capacity of over 100,000 cubic meters per day it is still a powerful reminder of the empire’s influence.


6. “Just before the next bridge, a few hundred yards upstream, is the Theatre of Marcellus, dedicated by Augustus in about 17 BC to the memory of his recently deceased nephew of that name.  With walls over 98 feet high, and seating over 14,000 spectators, this is the grandest of Rome’s stone theatres.” (131)

The Theatre of Marcellus and its surrounding area was one of the more underrated sites we visited in Rome, and I agree that it is an incredible sight to see.  The beautifully preserved arches may have lost some of their detail over time, but the level of detailed construction and craftsmanship are still evident thousands of years later.  Since we discovered in Ostia that some theaters have maintained their perfect acoustics throughout the years, I couldn’t help but wonder if this would be the case if we were to enter the Theatre of Marcellus today, but nonetheless it is a breathtaking site to visit from the outside.


7. “The Arch of Titus lies between the Forum and the Colosseum, and the passage beneath the arch is packed with people moving between the two.  Still, it is worth standing against this human tide to admire one of the most imposing of the two dozen or so triumphal arches scattered about the city.” (118)

The size of the Arch of Titus and meticulous detail within its carvings are so impressive, which serves its purpose of honoring a triumphal victory.  I visited the arch twice during our trip, once early in the morning (as pictured) and once later in the evening, and the difference between the two experiences was huge.  While the morning was fairly quiet with almost no other visitors in the area, by evening the space around the arch was packed.  While visitors cannot pass under the arch as they once did (it’s now fenced off), the imposing draw of this arch has remained, and when combined with the view of the Colosseum to its side creates a truly breathtaking view.


8. “The Colosseum (properly known as the Flavian Amphitheater) itself is the most imposing stadium on earth.” (82)

Thousands of years after its construction, the Colosseum remains absolutely breathtaking and incredibly impressive.  It’s almost incomprehensible how a feat of architecture like this was completed so long ago, and that it remains so well-preserved to this day.  The sheer size of the building is certainly intimidating, and the massive halls and the arena floor itself clearly demonstrated its imposing nature, as well as the intensity of the events that took place within it.


9. “Shopping, even in the capital of the world, is a rather hit-and-miss affair.  Rome has an impressive array of foodstuffs, and these are widely available.  Likewise specialist shops cater for particular needs…” (63)

This assessment of shopping in Rome is incredibly applicable to my experience: while there were some incredible shops, there were also plenty of tourist traps selling the same items as hundreds of others that looked exactly the same.  I was able to find some amazing markets, as well as plenty of specialty shops off the beaten path, but I personally preferred shopping in Florence by far.  There, I was able to find some amazing gifts for family and friends (and myself of course), including a little mom-and-pop leather shop that had been run by a married couple for over 30 years, where I was able to watch one of the owners in the process of putting together a bag by hand in the back half of the shop that had been designated as a workshop area.  While there were plenty of opportunities to do some unique and exciting shopping in Rome, there were also many scammers and sellers peddling mass-produced, cheaply made products that were a bit of a pain to avoid.


10. “The tyrant emperor’s gallery was lavishly decorated in stucco and allowed him to stroll in comfort down the hill to his magnificent Golden House (now demolished to make way for the Colosseum).” (128)

While Nero’s Golden House may have been demolished, its reappearance and the subsequent inspiration it provided create somewhat conflicting responses.  On one hand, Nero’s mistreatment of the Roman people should inspire backlash, but on the other hand the accidental preservation of his excessively opulent palace gives us a far deeper insight into this period of history than we would have otherwise.  As we explored the Domus Area, I was torn between the feeling of being connected to history and present in a more tangible way than I had in many ruins, but also aware of the fact that this level of wealth is beyond what most people could ever experience or hope to understand.


11. “Those journeying towards Rome past Tibur (later called Tivoli) should beg, bribe, or trade favors to get among the spectacular gardens and statues of the emperor Hadrian’s villa.  This massive complex is itself the size of a small town.  It has lakes, fountains, libraries, baths, temples, and a theatre.” (16)

Near the end of our trip, we took a trip to Tivoli, where we were able to explore the ruins of Emperor Hadrian’s villa.  Even with the several hours that we spent there, it was impossible to view the full scope of the massive villa complex.  Even in their current state the ruins were breathtaking, and it’s hard to imagine how spectacular they may have been at their prime, and I’m certain they would have been well worth the effort to visit.


12. “Don’t expect to travel the roads in comfort.” (10)

While the roads have been rebuilt and redesigned throughout history, traversing Rome’s roads is still not smooth sailing.  Between the driving patterns (or lack thereof) that seemed to view traffic laws as suggestions rather than rules, the uneven cobbled streets, and Vespa drivers seemingly appearing out of thin air to speed through alleys, travel throughout Rome was far from comfortable.  The methods that we use today certainly differ from what ancient Romans would have had access to (aside from walking), but one thing remains consistent: navigating the roads of Rome is not for the faint of heart.


13. “The rich marble flooring, the interarching columns and niches of the lower walls, the internal colonnades, and the profusion of light and colour combine to make this a temple of enduring fascination, an architectural and artistic tour de force that will endure for millennia.” (103)

As impressive as the Pantheon was from the outside, nothing prepared me for just how beautiful the interior would be.  The intricately designed interior was truly incredible, and beyond impressive.  I also found it interesting to think about the fact that the space was originally dedicated to all the Olympian gods, but has been converted to focus on significant figures of Catholicism.  This shift in the function of the space undoubtedly changed the overall atmosphere from what it may have once been, but the building itself is still such a stunning example of how modern and ancient architecture can coexist to enhance each other.


14. “The Roman year is packed with festivals, many to gods no one remembers and whose rites are celebrated by priests in obscure temples.  However, other celebrations are extremely public, and not only can a visitor not miss them, many visitors come to Rome especially for them.” (103)

Since our trip to Rome coincided with Italy’s Republic Day celebration, I was able to witness some of the festivities firsthand, for better or worse.  One of the highlights of my trip was being able to see the tricolor jet display, which I had an amazing view of from the roof of our hotel.  Of course, it was also visible across other parts of the city, making it an extremely public and busy celebration.  This meant that I had trouble returning to the hotel at one point since I had gone for an early morning walk and crowds had materialized while I was away, completely blocking main roads.  While ancient Rome wouldn’t have had jet displays, it’s still interesting to see that the tradition of exciting festivals has continued and grown throughout the years.


15. “For visitors, no trip to Rome is complete without a trip to the Forum, simply because so much of Rome’s history happened in this one small valley.” (115)

This incredible view over the Forum was another of the highlights of the trip for me.  It’s hard to wrap my mind around the fact that Rome was once essentially the world’s central power, and that this area was once the heart of the mighty empire.  It was almost overwhelming to think about the fact that I was looking over the area where so many decisions were made that led to the world we have today, and that even today we are able to see what was essentially the capital of the ancient world.  Being able to look down at what remains from such a powerful civilization really put into perspective the fact that one day we may be no different, and that ancient Romans were people with complex lives much like us.  Being able to view their influence even now was an experience I will never forget.


 

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